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    篁嶺的美麗鄉愁

    發表時間:2015年03月31 作者:夏磊點擊:1098次 收藏此文

      當我在這個傍晚走在婺源篁嶺安靜的石板臺階上,聽到腳下的小溪汩汩地流向遠處的時候,我的心變得濕潤而且柔和,有一種清淡如水卻又真真切切的東西在心里彌漫開來,那也許就是從來都不曾失落過的鄉愁吧。
                     
      可能是自己不再年輕的緣故,這些年,只要是途經蘇皖這一帶或是受徽派文化影響的地方,總是不經意地在一些景物面前停下腳步,進而在它們那兒尋找些老家的影子,甚至有時候在完全不相干的地方,只要看到一個似曾相識的情景也會不禁陷入片刻的懷想。所以,祖籍安徽的我對篁嶺這個古村是心儀已久的了。
                     
      是啊,鄉愁不僅是對于故鄉而言,它其實是對從前那些年代的美好東西的追憶,是對那些無法復制的情感的深情呼喚。有時當我們的日子過得越好,這種情緒反而越是強烈。并不是故鄉真的回不去,也不是不想馬上拔腿就走。鄉愁是屬于內心的,我們其實更想把鄉愁換化成一種祝福,遠遠地望著,淡淡地想著。那一刻的溫暖只有自己才能真正品嘗出來。
                     
      慢慢走進篁嶺的小街,不遠處的一盞路燈悄無聲息地亮了,天還沒黑下來,這盞路燈顯得并不太亮。忽然我想起在哪里見過它,對了,它看起來一點都不陌生,燈具和場景雖然都不同,但那孤單的一點亮光卻是一樣的。記得那是在南京老家讀書的時候,每天下午放學都要走很遠的路才回到家。好多個黃昏,在風里在雨里,一個孩子歪歪斜斜地在鄉路上走著,他的眼里一直盯著閃爍在遠處的一點燈火,那正是從自家門里照出來的,這點燈火后來就一直陪伴著我走過了好多好多地方,想一想就會心頭一熱,它永遠都不會隱沒在都市霓虹之中。
                     
      我喜歡黃昏,唯有這個時刻,我們才會回想一下這一天發生的事情,才會舍不得太陽落山,同時心里又期待一個寧靜夜晚的到來。我愿意在這種寧靜之中自由地呼吸自由地行走。我走到曬秋的架子旁,我知道這里是人們晾曬辣椒和紅薯、玉米的地方,那些淳樸的老人可能剛剛回家;走在顯得冷清的小巷里時,我知道彎彎的山路上正走著晚歸的村里人;而當我站在高高的嶺上看著山中的霧氣慢慢升起看到遠處閃爍的稀疏燈火時,那一抹鄉愁又一次淺淺地襲來。
                     
      是的,我們都是從鄉村走來,可當我們想要再走回去的時候,鄉村卻不知還在不在,我們要去哪里才能找到回鄉的路啊。這會兒,我忽然覺得好像以前來過這里,也是這樣久久地站在這里,甚至也有著一樣的思緒。合上眼睛,好多熟悉的景象一幕幕閃過,好多熟悉的人遠遠近近地走來,過世多年的爺爺奶奶外公外婆的笑容還是那么慈祥,他們看起來竟都不怎么顯老。我知道,我們心里的原鄉是樸素的并且是永不褪色的。
                     
      在朋友們的引導下,我走進了篁嶺的這間書屋。篁嶺被稱為是“中國最美符號”之一,這間書屋大概可以叫“篁嶺的最美符號”吧。
                     
      人類自從有了文學就有了思想和歷史的傳承,而一個村落哪怕是最初的草棚,一旦炊煙升起,就開始了一段永無止境的生活,并且無關幸福或者是苦難。這兩者何其相似,文字記錄著篁嶺的古老,篁嶺的古老又不停地生發更多的文字。而這間書屋坐落在這個小巷之中,它忽然讓篁嶺平添了幾分書卷氣,這是多么讓人心生溫暖的事呀。
                     
      書屋不大,當四周的店鋪陸續打烊,當闌珊的燈火一盞盞亮起又熄滅的時候,這個小書屋的燈光卻一直照亮著它的門前,照亮著這個山村的一個角落。而當它這樣出現在我的眼前時,我覺得我們都被它照亮了。
                     
      山里的早晚比較冷,書屋的兩個女生一襲白色的春裝,干凈大方,一如這書屋的陳設,幾件小擺設透出主人的慧心。書屋有個小小的窗口,在這個窗口可以望見坡上坡下的人家和從那里透出來的點點燈光,她們告訴我,下午就坐在這窗口等著隔壁酒坊里那位老者的笛聲響起。據說這位老者每天都在吹他的笛子,卻時常一整天也賣不出一杯酒。我沒能聽到這笛聲,然而我想,他的笛聲就是篁嶺的一種天籟,他的酒雖然沒有賣出多少,但他喚起了多少游客的多少客居的鄉愁?
                     
      這讓我想起《詩經》中《小雅。何人斯》里的句子:“伯氏吹塤,仲氏吹篪。”這里的篪就是笛子,而“伯塤仲篪”后來就指一種和諧的關系,那么這從遙遠年代飄過來的笛聲它勾起的該是我們民族的鄉愁吧。是的,我們的先民那么熱愛他們的故土家園,我們最美的鄉愁詩篇也可以說是從《詩經》開始。“昔我往矣,楊柳依依。今我來思,雨雪霏霏。”多么動人啊,一片雪花一片柳絮都能承載他們對故土的思念。那么篁嶺梯田里的金黃的油菜花,它怎能不留住我們許多流連的腳步和回望的目光。
                     
      十幾歲的時候,我喜歡用四處弄來的一點點錢買一本書,然后躺在長江的江灘上或蘆葦叢一直看到太陽落山。在篁嶺,我就想坐在高高的紅豆杉樹下或這間書屋的窗口旁看幾頁書。近來,許多人都在說我們需要“記住鄉愁”,的確,我們有太多的東西需要用鄉愁來修復和覆蓋,我們的心靈太需要洗去陰霾回到從前的清清朗朗的世界了。
                     
      離開篁嶺的時候天空已是深深的黛色,車子越走越遠,篁嶺的燈火都看不見了,從車窗吹進來的夜風帶著清甜的油菜花香。閉上眼睛,我生命中的那盞燈光還有篁嶺的街燈又在我心頭亮起,大概,那就是我永遠不敢忘懷的和我在篁嶺感受到的美麗鄉愁吧!
                     
      原載:江西日報(3月27日井岡山)                 

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