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    那時蘆葉香

    發表時間:2015年07月02 作者:夏磊點擊:1384次 收藏此文

      端午節的早晨,照例是要吃粽子的。孩子邊吃邊問我,這粽葉是什么葉是從哪兒來的。我停下筷子告訴他,粽葉其實不止一種,今天咱們吃的這種是竹葉的,而我小時候在南京老家吃的是蘆葦葉的。我接著說,那時我們歡天喜地地把蘆葉摘好洗凈,一大家人擔水的擔水,抱柴的抱柴,包的包煮的煮,整個村落也到處彌漫著粽子的清香。粽子沒熟是沒有人睡覺的,母親和嬸娘們每回都要忙到深夜,誰都不知道那最后一縷炊煙是什么時候飄散的。

      不知不覺我的語調放慢了,一種很溫暖的東西在心底慢慢地涌上來,往年的光景正一點一點地在眼前變得清晰起來。

      老家舊屋的后面是一塊菜園,菜園過去是一條小路和一條小河,在路和河的中間有一大片蘆葦,還有野茉莉。五六月的時候,一眼望去,晴天則蒼翠碧綠,雨天則有如一團霧靄,晚風吹過則會帶來蘆葦和洗澡花的香味。

      小孩子沒有誰不喜歡蘆葦蕩,蘆葉可以包粽子這誰都知道,而有關蘆葦的其它一些樂事卻只有鄉下人獨享了。岸上蘆叢里,在很隱蔽的地方常能尋著一個雞蛋或鴨蛋,運氣好的甚至能揀到一窩。在水淺的地方,很容易就能捕到傻傻的龍蝦,拿去賣錢也行,自己煮了下酒也不錯。老的蘆葦根莖特別發達,像個大網兜一樣,有的甚至半懸在河沿上,在這樣的地方用小鏟子挖下去,就能挖出一截白白的蘆根,甜甜的,脆脆的,苦苦澀澀的,正如鄉居的日子一樣,味道是那么獨特,而其中甘苦卻不是誰都能咀嚼出來的。

      長的蘆葦桿割下來后風干,然后扎成杯口粗一把,就可以用來做建房的材料了,冬暖夏涼;秋風吹起的時候,把飛舞的蘆絮收集起來,可以做成蘆花枕頭。每次當我把這些說給燕聽的時候,她都驚訝得不得了。燕是姑姑的小女兒,在城里長大,每年端午都要跟大人一起下鄉。她非常喜歡蘆葉,會用蘆葉編出不少東西。她用蘆葉折成各式各樣的小船,讓它們隨著河水緩緩地漂向遠方,有時我們就跟著這些小船在岸上走,期望著能有一兩只漂進長江。閘門是不常開的,于是燕就把船帶上,在回城的輪渡開到江心時,把船放下,這蘆葉船就在大家的注視下,很快消失在波濤里。那濁浪中的一點碧綠一直留在我們的記憶里,而且我相信,肯定曾經有一只小船隨著浩浩的江水漂進了大海。

      包粽子是端午節里最重要的節目,也是一段最快樂的時光。通常一家人是有個大體的分工的,采摘粽葉是大人帶著孩子們做,灶下添柴燒火一般由姊妹們去做,嬸娘輩的女人是包粽子的主角。小角粽子最為獨特,這種粽子呈三角形,因為角尖,所以包時難度大,而吃起來,角上那一口也是最誘人的。爺爺每次都坐在堂屋中間喝茶,并不說什么話,只是慈祥地看著老少一家子開心地忙碌著。

      幾鍋粽子里有一些是包了肉的,有的有記號,有的則完全看不出來,這就使得吃粽子帶了一點游戲的成分,充滿了期待和驚喜。有一次晚上,我一連開了兩個都沒有肉,就感到十分委屈。這邊肚子都快飽了,那邊連肉影子都沒見,于是就有點想哭,而大家卻笑得更厲害。終于我的眼淚奪眶而出。大家不再笑了,嬸娘們安慰我說,明天專門挑帶肉的給我吃,不然這大頭孫子的肚子會撐破的。我破涕為笑,眾人笑得更響。這個笑聲肯定會在那個安靜的晚上傳出去很遠,很遠。

      這些年,大家都天各一方,我也離開老家多年了,沒有回鄉過過端午。節前,給南京的大姐打了個電話,先是敘了敘家常,忽而大姐問我,你家現在還自己包粽子嗎。我們都被這個話題噎住了,其實這也正是我想問她而不敢問的。正像一根脆弱的神經,輕輕一碰就會疼到心里。大姐說,這些年大家都買了吃,不過今年她退休了,一定要自己包回粽子,爭取還是到鄉下去包。

      大姐的心思我何嘗不知,她正是想用包粽子這件事,把一家人聚一聚,讓大家跟往年一樣地熱鬧一下。爺爺已過世多年了,兩位嬸娘也在前幾年相繼離去了。那精致的小角粽子不知有誰會包,更不知還有沒有人能包那么好,或許它也跟嬸娘們一樣,只能永遠地留在大家的心中,留在大家的記憶里了。

      我想,秋天的時候爭取回一次老家,去尋一個蘆花枕頭,帶回來讓妻兒都枕一枕,并為他們講述一段在蘆葉飄香、葦絮飛舞的季節里的故事。


    原文刊載于【人民日報6月27日12版】


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