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    跟會

    發表時間:2019年05月27 作者:楊廣虎點擊:302次 收藏此文

                     跟  會                                                                       

                          楊廣虎  


    今年西安的天氣太怪,冷熱變化很大,昨天還穿著羊毛衣,今天又一下子竄到38度,大街上行人稀少,熱氣蒸騰,人們都躲到山里去避暑。母親從西府鄉下打來電話問:“端午節馬上到了,麥子收完,回來跟會不?”我無言以答,整天忙忙碌碌,不知道究竟為了啥。從西安到寶雞家鄉不過百余里,但一年很少回去。   母親所說的“跟會”,是關中方言,大體意思就是“跟集”,趕大集,但相同又不同,“跟會”的“會”比“集”要大得多,隆重得多,內容豐富得多。過去,為了物資交易方便,方圓百里,村民自發組織,每個不同小鄉鎮逢單或者逢雙有“集”;“會”,也算民間組織,一般借用廟會、古會,固定農(古)歷日子,每個村鎮輪回,日子互不沖撞,一年或者幾年才舉辦一次,要請名角,唱大戲,演電影,玩雜耍等等,熙熙攘攘,物資交流,商販云集,小吃遍地,人聲鼎沸,好不熱鬧!時間一般為農閑、忙罷,三至五天,是說媳婦,走親戚的好日子,也是農村青年男女背見、遇面,自由戀愛的好時機。  老家在天府關中,西府寶雞的塬上橋鎮嘴頭村。塬叫賈村塬、蟠龍塬,西平塬、大蟲塬等,民間傳說紛紜,文物古跡眾多,歷史文化積淀深厚,不再贅述。塬位于寶雞市北部,東起千河,與鳳翔塬隔河相望;南依渭河,與秦嶺對峙;西至金陵河,與陵塬為鄰;北靠千陽嶺,與吳山相連,東西寬約15里,南北長約30里,宛如一條巨龍蜿蜒起伏,橫亙于關中大地,龍頭就在這個塬西南部渭河北岸的蟠龍山,龍尾就在北部緊靠山區的汧河西岸的龍尾村。在這塊風水寶地,有十余萬人在此居住。天氣尚好之時,可遠望千渭交匯,八百里秦川。塬包含蟠龍鎮,賈村鎮,橋鎮三個鎮100多個自然村,過去屬于寶雞縣管轄,現在寶雞縣改陳倉區,橋鎮、賈村合為賈村鎮,屬于陳倉區管轄,蟠龍鎮屬金臺區管轄,正在建設新區,高樓林立,工地不少,沒有往日的寧靜。塬上賈村鎮形成集鎮,始于明末,興盛于清代。塬,屬于渭北臺塬,塬上一馬平川,四周溝壑縱橫,典型的黃土高坡地貌;自古塬上缺水,屬于旱塬,靠天吃飯,但民風淳樸,人杰地靈,勤勞細發,性格倔強。清同治年間“鳳翔回亂”,“民國十八年,天大早,全年無雨,渭水涸竭,車馬通行,禾苗枯死,顆粒無收,畝地換小麥一斗,草根樹皮食之殆盡.災民為了生存,拆房賣地,鬻妻賣子,換糧糊口。無奈中壯者外逃求生,弱者坐以待斃,乞討者甚多,餓殍遍野。” (《寶雞縣志》)等歷史上幾次較大天災人禍,加上風災、雹災、蟲災、瘟災、水災、火災、兵匪之災等等一同降臨,經歷滄桑,但世代繁衍,頑強生活,一直至今。  我從小在塬上生活,親戚朋友,活動區域也一般在以村為中心,方圓十里的范圍。雖然塬下是繁華的寶雞市,直至小學畢業,我沒有去過市區。倒是經常跟著爺婆(婆,寶雞方言,奶的意思)跟集、跟會,提著大麻花走親戚,吃臊子面,站在舞臺下面看秦腔,去白荊山燒香,聽過一些吳山土匪殺人越貨,點天燈的故事。   母親所說的“跟會”,還有一層意思。即農歷七月十二,橋鎮物資交流大會到了,九月十三陵厚寺“刀山會”要到了,希望我借著“跟會”回家一趟,我懂得。   我們村不大,且不富裕,自己很少“過會”,基本都是“跟會”。村里的老人,一般去附近的地方跟會,坐著“蹦蹦車”或者步行,包括纏著裹腳的婆門,懷著一顆虔誠的向善之心,從來不辭辛苦,長途跋涉去用多年積攢下來的錢,燒香拜佛,祈福家庭平安吉祥。在田間地頭,鄉間小路上,經常可以看見“跟會”的老人,吸拉著長長旱煙袋,戴著圓石頭眼鏡的老漢和拄著棗木拐棍,頭頂帕帕手巾的小腳老婆,奔走相告,腳步匆匆。從農歷正月初九的縣功碧峰寺古廟會、正月十四赤沙血社火古廟會、正月十七陳村古會、三月十二白荊山古廟會、四月初一的鳳翔靈山古廟會、四月八的虢鎮古廟會、七月初一縣功西陽洞古廟會、七月十二橋鎮古會、九月十三陵厚“刀山會”等等,還不算一些自然村的“會”,演皮影、木偶戲,吼“西府曲子”,幾乎一年四季,周圍都有,有時候還遠赴岐山三月初十周公廟會。在受周禮文化影響較重、交通、環境、文化等相對封閉,人們娛樂休閑生活較少的日子里,舉辦廟會、鄉黨們一起去“跟會”,便于物資、貿易往來和交流,也增進了大伙的感情,在農耕文化背景之下,絕對是老百姓的一次放松和狂歡。   我們村離橋鎮、陵厚很近,一般要去這兩個地方“跟會”。   農歷七月十二,正是夏收結束,麥收糧倉之后,人們忙罷,便在鄉鎮所在地橋鎮村舉辦。從橋鎮村唱戲的舞臺到初中,大約有四五里路,沿路兩旁,全是商販的攤點,賣布匹的、賣瓜子的、賣雜貨的,賣老鼠藥的,炸油糕的,烤羊串的,縫衣服的,販賣牛羊的,打鐵的,捏泥人的,吹糖人的等等,各種農副商品應有盡有,空氣中充滿著各種油炸鄉土的味道,人們黝黑的臉上洋溢著各種不同的笑容。除了小吃美食,有時候還耍社火、踩高蹺、賽鑼鼓,比刺繡。橋鎮離家只有二里路,我是一個小孩,老人叫的“碎娃”,跟著大人在街上走來走去,最后站在舞臺下面看秦腔。西府秦腔,又叫“西路梆子”、“西路戲”、“西路秦腔”、“老秦腔”等,在寶雞擁有大量的“粉絲”和人氣,“會”由村民自發組織,錢款自籌,唱戲也有講究,第一天要請神,最后一天要送神,上午、晚上唱本戲,下午唱“折子戲”,老人叫:“西安亂彈”。陳仁義、郭明霞、肖若蘭、李愛琴、劉茹惠等等秦腔名家都在這個鄉村小舞臺上唱過,尤其是前排,一旦“名演”出場,臺下人面宛如潮水涌動,都爭著搶先觀看,梢子功、帽翅功、鞭掃燈花、頂燈、咬牙、耍火棍、跌撲、髯口、蹺工、獠牙、水袖,頂燈,吹火等等,看得人如醉如癡,披紅掛彩,鞭炮陣陣,全然不顧維持秩序的用竹竿在頭上敲打,回家才發現,頭上已經起了幾個包,疼痛好幾天才消腫。即使天空暴雨來臨,人們站立在泥濘的舞臺下面,雕塑一般,紋絲不動,任憑雨水澆灌,不時哼哼幾句,對秦腔的熱情絲毫不減。用老百姓的話講,“這個戲迷客,看進心里去了。”   我隨大人“跟會”,中午提上一捆麻糖(麻花)就去當地的親戚家吃飯。先要吃一碗臊子面墊底,家鄉的臊子面不同于岐山的“紅油酸辣”,也不同于長安的由雞或豬的骨頭熬成的“高湯”不酸的臊子面,有點像扶風、乾縣一帶的,保持原汁原味,色味較淡,賢淑端莊的女主人親自掌勺,用干柴慢火燒著風箱,大黑鐵鍋開水翻滾,手工搟面,面薄條細、筋韌光滑、湯寬面少,只吃面不喝湯,“漂湯”一般有韭菜、蔥花、豆腐、黃花菜、攤的雞蛋切成菱形,辣子自家地里雞糞作肥生產,醋也是自家紅高粱釀制,澆上黑土豬肉燣的臊子,有“薄、勁、光、煎、稀、汪、酸、辣、香”的味道,主要還是酸、辣,好在油潑辣子自己放。然后過上一半個小時,正式吃飯,早先是十大碗,后來是“十三花”,再后來講究“八涼八熱”,“西府肘花”,“拉絲紅芋”、“驢金錢肉”等是舌尖最美的食品,暈素搭配,喝酒吃飯,有美食,有西風美酒,劃拳猜令,一醉方休,最后還要吃上一老碗干面,才心里受活。   有時候,天天去“跟會”看戲,不好意思去親戚家了,就在戲場上咥上一碗油潑扯面,或者臊子揪面片、豆花泡饃,手工菠菜面、拉條子、削筋面、搓搓面等等,節省時間,也滿足了自己的食欲。   陵厚既是寺名,也是村名。位于賈村塬中部,古時稱證果寺,后來被改作學校,村以強、翟、李為大姓。證果寺舊址位于陵二村,原陵厚小學與賈村高中附近,山門在兩所學校大門中間。其刀山香火大會曾經名揚西府,民國22年古歷十月十五舉行,由寶雞縣十二區區長強毅及地方名流容儒等人籌辦。刀山高約50米,由四根連接成約55米的巨形木柱搭成,四柱各綁鍘刀90把,共360把。四高柱頂端以橫木固定,交叉處倒縛方桌一張,四條腿上各插彩旗一面,為此買空了寶雞、鳳翔、虢鎮、陳村、賈村等市鎮的麻繩,借空了賈村塬各村各戶的鍘刀。趕會這天,本縣以及鄰近各地的豪商巨賈、善男信女群集陵厚寺,爭睹上刀山。西府秦腔名旦李嘉寶之弟、善演武生戲的李碎寶與其50多歲的師父王吉林袒胸赤足,頭挽神仙發式,肩披紅綢當眾上了刀山。李嘉寶還在現場表演了“掛筋戲”絕活。以后,刀山香火大會很少舉辦,舊址也被改造成學校。據說,“上刀山”是流傳于寶雞農村的一種祈福還愿活動,陵厚寺、渭河南的斜坡村以及硤石的趙家坡村等地都曾舉辦過刀山會,以陵厚寺的刀山會聲勢最為浩大。解放后,“上刀山”被當作封建迷信活動被禁止,連表演的工具包括服裝、刀、書籍等大多被毀掉了,幾乎沉寂。直到1995年后,渭河南岸的斜坡村、任家山、姜家塬、祁家溝陸續有了上刀山表演。   我在上中學的時候,有幸看過陵厚的“刀山會”。比起以后在旅游景點上看過的苗族“上刀山”要高得多,全國其他一些地方,也有類似民間表演,但不身臨其境,不知其兇險刺激。陵厚寺每三十年舉辦一次“刀山會”,一大早,老百姓便從四面八方涌來一睹為快,整個塬上、塬下,聞訊而來的人群有幾萬人,就等著看熱鬧。手持香蠟紙表的善男信女先去寺里敬神燒香、祭祀神靈,我擇一塊較高的地方準備看震撼人心的“刀山會”。   遠遠望去,場面壯觀,“刀山”上彩旗飛揚,呈寶塔式,和西安的大雁塔差不多高,空曠遼遠的天地中尤顯巍峨高大,雄偉壯觀,上高十五丈,下深一丈,用四根各十六丈長的大木柱搭成。木柱下粗上細,下面直徑三尺,上面直徑有一尺。架子四面各綁有九十把鍘刀,鍘刀共有三百六十把,鍘刃向上,鍘背朝下,相距二尺,刀光凜凜,讓人不敢聲息,整個會場鴉雀無聲。兩位表演者袒胸赤足,頭挽神仙發式,肩披紅綢,步入刀山之下,爬刀梯,雙腳在地下輕輕一點,一個燕子鉆天勢,騰空上了刀山。表演者雙手,搬著笫三層鍘刃,胸貼著笫二層鍘刃,腳踩著笫一層鍘刃,在刀山上做著多種高難度的動作,一會兒“玉龍鉆洞”,一會兒“鷂子翻身”,每上一層,頭從刀刃中鉆出,來個“蝎子倒卷尾”,身手敏捷,姿態優美,引起眾人眼花繚亂,驚嘆不已,掌聲如鳴,還有鑼鼓加油,聲震于天。圍觀群眾,人山人海,不停喝彩,歡呼雷動。“娘(nia)娘(nia),我的老天!”有的人嚇得不敢正眼看,低著頭,又不甘心。下來后,表演完畢,表演者要出示手掌腳板,表明沒有任何傷痕。據說,為了檢驗這鍘刀刃是否鋒利,圍觀的村民們往往會圍在刀架子前,拿著繩子在刀刃上測試,但繩子都應聲而斷。這就是塬上最著名的證果寺刀山香火大會。這種民間絕技,原以“驅邪保平安”為目的,后來慢慢成了一種文化鄉村記憶。   村里老人講,上刀山,是寶雞民間藝術的一個重要組成部分,有著豐富的文化內涵,歷經百余年的傳承流變,神奇而絢爛,而且有許多規矩。過去凡上刀山者和保山的陰陽,必須于頭年冬至上寺居住。要獨有一間房子,坐靜、專念《鐵山鎮》經文。忌口齋戒,早晚淋浴,不上罷刀山,不準出寺回家。如今,雖沒有那么嚴格的禁忌,但至少也要在一周前,沐浴更衣,不近女色,清心寡欲,不啖牛、魚、狗肉。   上刀山,規模小的,一兩人可以。規模大的,也可以四個人同時從四面上刀山。并根據“小年三十六,大年七十二”的刀把數確定架子的高低,一般架子高18米,鍘刀的擺放有兩種形式:一種是平放,一種是兩刀交叉。在梯級的左端,還要鋪一段刀路。整個刀架子上扎有黃、紅、綠、藍的各種紙花和神符小旗。豎立起的刀架子就像筆直的“天梯”,聳立在高空。接著是起壇請神,上刀山的人要凈手焚香,默念咒語,先拜康王老祖,乞求老祖保佑,傳授上刀山秘訣,再拜東、西、南、北、中五方。接下來,舉行打卦封刀封四柱儀式。把供奉在斗壇上的那把鍘刀放置在紅布上,上刀山的人一個口含法水對鍘刀噴灑,另一個人及時把鍘刀翻轉過來,保證兩面都要噴灑到。同時打卦,得陰卦后,表示老祖傳授上刀山秘訣成功,并祝賀“秘訣到手四方可走”等吉利話。然后再繞刀架子走八卦,喝一口法水,噴吐出去,意念中一口法水要直達刀山頂端,也就是所謂的封四柱。最后,方才可以上刀山。在完成一系列的祭拜儀式后,一名或者幾名勇敢者穿著古老的服飾,圍著刀架子繞一周邊念咒語,然后背負背面和紅布條,赤足裸掌,手腳并用,緣刀刃徐徐而上,而后在刀山頂端再拜五方,然后相向交換,又徐徐而下。     這就是“真功夫”,靠的是膽大心細,手腳靈活。“上刀山、下火海”,形容人意志堅定,在所不辭。這些表演者,成了我們孩子心目中的“大英雄”,無論遇到怎樣艱難坎坷,一想到“上刀山”,一切便迎刃而解。  在陵厚寺現存的一塊賈村塬名門望族容氏的書法碑刻。該碑放置在陵厚寺睡佛殿前的墻角,上半截缺去一個大角,所幸下半截保留完整。碑文刀口較淺,行楷字體,書法秀麗遒勁,讓人賞心悅目。落款字跡顯示,擔綱碑文撰寫并書丹的是寶雞清末民初書法名家容儒先生。從殘存的內容看,這是一塊容儒為記載民國時期陵厚寺上刀山盛會而撰寫的石碑。參照碑文及地方文史資料記載,陵厚寺刀山會在1932年的盛會過后,容儒親筆撰文,書寫了這篇碑記。   二十多年來,我經常回家路過陵厚、橋鎮等村,唱戲的舞臺四周蓋滿了房子,空蕩蕩的,過去偌大的廣場顯得逼仄不堪,有的舞臺也被日塌完了;我覺得,鄉村舞臺一直中國農民心中的精神支柱,鄉村文化的繼承、展演、發展之地。好多年,沒有唱戲了,老人講,年輕人進城打工忘了祖,不愛回家,也不愛看秦腔,也沒有人出資弄這些事了。  今年,我一定要回去“跟會”。我在電話中,告訴母親,不知道還能不能吃到童年的味道,看到“刀山會”上心中的“英雄”?鄉村要振興,文脈今何在?記的,幾年前,母親來西安一直吃不慣,說吃和沒吃一樣,我領著去大雁塔,看著“陜西戲曲大觀園”高大的臉譜愣神,在雁塔十字附近的永豐岐山面館美美咥了一碗煎火的臊子面,長長嘆了口氣,才心滿意足,露出了難得的笑容。                        2019年5月25日匆于長安

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            nia nia ,你這一篇文章,詳細得就像賈村塬,溝溝坎坎啥都有,看完全篇,比咥了一碗臊子面還嵌和。對于賈村塬,我是有感情的。以前,在還沒有大開發的時候,我曾騎著自行車,從寶雞市十八孔橋這里上蟠龍塬,



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